I had to laugh the first time I went to Grady’s BBQ. It’s miles from anywhere, tucked between fields of collard greens and tobacco and not much else. Yet the crunch of gravel and the squeak of brakes create a chorus as car after car appears in the parking lot. Like some oasis in the desert, lunch patrons appear for their whole hog barbecue cooked for 18 hours over real oak wood. When you open the door to Grady’s, there’s a line up 10 deep, it’s destination dining at its finest. There’s one dish, cole slaw, hush puppies, black-eyed peas and smoky, succulent pork doused in east Carolina vinegar sauce. It’s one of the great equalizing laws of food, no matter where you set up shop, if you make something good enough, people will come.
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